Sailing, Snorkeling & Sunsets: Our Unforgettable BVI Adventure

The moment we touched down in Tortola, the heat hit us like a wave—over 90 degrees Fahrenheit and high humidity. But that was just the beginning of our unforgettable adventure in the British Virgin Islands. From navigating the largest vessel we’ve ever sailed to snorkeling in crystal-clear waters and soaking in breathtaking sunsets, our BVI journey was filled with exhilarating experiences and lasting memories.

Our Itinerary-at-a-Glance

• Hodges Creek Marina – Tortola
• Bight Bay- Norman Island
• The Indians
• Fallen Jerusalem Island
• Great Dog Island
• Trellis Bay – Beef Island
• The Baths – Virgin Gorda
• Spanish Town – Virgin Gorda
• Leverick Bay – Virgin Gorda
• White Bay – Jost Van Dyke
• Bight Bay- Norman Island
• Road Town – Tortola
• Cooper Island
• Hodges Creek Marina – Tortola

Saturday: Arrival in Tortola

Our BVI adventure began on a scorching Saturday afternoon as we touched down in Tortola at 1:30 PM. As soon as we stepped off the plane, the heat and humidity were crippling. At 2:30 PM, we checked into Dream Yacht Charters, but our boat wouldn’t be ready until 4:30 PM. So, we ventured into town and found a charming spot by the water to grab a bite to eat. Despite getting chewed up by the no-see ums, we had a delightful chat with our waitress who welcomed us to the island.

Back at the marina, the charter company had procured our pre-ordered provisions and by 5:00 PM we had completed the pre-boarding checklist. We settled into our new home for the next few days: a 2023 Bali Catspace 40-foot catamaran, the Virgo Maris. 

About Catamarans

Sailing catamarans and monohulls are quite different experiences, each with its unique feel and challenges. A catamaran is stable – its two hulls makes it less likely to heel (tip) and provides a smoother ride, especially in rough seas. This stability can make it easier and more comfortable for novices or those prone to seasickness. Catamarans have shallow drafts, allowing them to get closer to shorelines and anchor in shallower waters, which is fantastic for exploring and swimming. The wide beam (width) of a catamaran means more space for living quarters and amenities, which is great for long trips or family outings. But the wide beam of a catamaran can make docking a bit more challenging. On the flip side, a monohull, with its single hull, can heel significantly under sail, which can make for an exhilarating experience as you feel more connected to the water and wind. This heeling helps the monohull cut through the waves more efficiently, but can be hard for people prone to seasickness. Monohulls are generally more maneuverable in tight spaces, making docking easier in crowded marinas.

Sunday: Training and the First Sunset

Since our previous sailing experience was limited to monohulls, we decided to hire a captain to familiarize ourselves with the nuances of sailing a catamaran. Dream Yacht Charters connected us with the affable Captain Houk, who would guide us through the intricacies of maneuvering this larger vessel. On Sunday, we started the day with our coffee ritual on the dock in Hodges Creek Marina, gazing out at the field of catamarans. When Captain Houk boarded the vessel our adventure truly began. 

We began our training in the tight confines of Hodges Creek Marina, practicing engine control and getting a feel for the boat’s responsiveness. It was nerve-racking as this was a tight marina and the largest vessel we’d ever sailed. (Kent did a fantastic job!) 

Once Captain Houk felt confident in our abilities, we navigated the winding channel out of the marina and ventured out into the open ocean. Directly across the channel, off the shores of Salt Island, he patiently guided us through hoisting the sails, dousing the sails, anchoring, mooring, and all of the systems on the boat. 

Huge thanks to Captain Houk for the excellent hands-on training and making our learning experience so enjoyable!

After passing our “sail-a-catamaran test” with flying colors, we were exhausted. We bid farewell to Captain Houk and set a course for Bight Bay of Norman Island, just seven miles south, across the channel. After securing a mooring ball, we hopped in the dinghy, and headed to the iconic Willie T’s for some food and slushy margaritas. Willie T’s is a floating bar and restaurant covered in stickers left by visitors from all over the world – a rite of passage for anyone visiting the BVI!

Monday: Snorkeling at The Indians

We kicked off our Monday bright and early, by 7:30 AM, we were motor cruising towards The Indians, a renowned snorkel spot. On our way out of the bay, staff in a dinghy tracked us down as we hadn’t paid for the mooring ball! So we paid the fee and went on our way. On a mooring ball at The Indians, we donned our snorkel gear and dove into the crystal-clear waters. The marine life was vibrant and breathtaking, and we captured incredible footage on our GoPro, which we can’t wait to share! 

After our snorkeling adventure, we set out to explore Fallen Jerusalem Island. There, we caught another mooring ball but after lunch, we decided to move on due to the proximity to shore – too close to the rocks. 

Our next stop was Great Dog, where we snorkeled again and were rewarded with more stunning underwater footage. 

As the sun began to set, we headed to Trellis Bay on Beef Island where we would pick up Maria and Mary. They arrived by taxi at the Loose Mongoose, where we enjoyed a delicious dinner together. As the sun set, we took them to the catamaran where they spent their first night on the ocean.

Tuesday: The Baths at Virgin Gorda

We started Tuesday with a cup of coffee and got underway by 8 AM, leaving Trellis Bay behind for the breathtaking Baths at Virgin Gorda. 

The Baths, located on the southwest tip of Virgin Gorda, are a geological marvel with enormous granite boulders forming stunning ocean pools and caverns. We secured a mooring ball, swam to the buoy line that surrounds the area. From there we ventured ashore and explored the network of pools and crevices. An unforgettable adventure! (No pics – my apologies! I had my phone in a waterproof case *backwards* which made picture-taking a no go!)

Once we’d navigated the maze, we swam back to the buoy line where Kent was waiting with the dinghy. He had spent the morning snorkeling so here was the situation: we four in the water and an empty dinghy. What to do? We helped Maria and Mary into the dinghy first (easy lifts!), then myself. With three of us inside the dinghy, we faced the challenge of getting Kent aboard. With a clever inversion technique and a bit of teamwork, Kent successfully lifted himself into the boat!

Because of the heat, we were using the air con extensively at night. The cool air and white noise made for really comfortable sleeping, but it was draining our diesel fuel. We decided to fuel up at Spanish Town. We radioed out to the marina ahead of time, made them aware that we are newbies and help on the dock would be much appreciated. They assured us they’d be right there to guide us in. Indeed, our first docking attempt, went exceedingly well with Kent at the helm and myself working the deck lines.

But all hell broke loose on our way out of the marina! There were vessels on the left and the right, we were weaving in and out, when Kent realized the rudder wasn’t doing its job – we had lost steerage! Using the dual engines, Kent maneuvered the boat out of the marina into the open ocean. From there we motored over to the Dogs, caught a mooring ball, and decompressed. A quick call to Dream Yacht Charter and a little while later, we had two marine mechanics on board. One guy disappeared into the engine compartment for a minutes, and when his head popped up, he was holding a rod! The rudder sensor had been disabled, making it impossible to steer! It was a simple fix – he snapped the rod back in place and we were back in business.

We ended the day with more snorkeling and a delicious dinner at Leverick Bay Resort and Marina (Trip Advisor). The marina is well-equipped, offering a variety of amenities, including a pool, grocery store, laundry facilities, and most notably, showers.

Wednesday: Sailing to White Bay

Our next destination? The idyllic White Bay on Jost Van Dyke, home of the legendary Soggy Dollar Bar. It was going to be a long haul so we opted to forego land-showers and get underway instead. This was our first and only sailing excursion during the week, a 25-mile passage that was nothing short of magical. We soaked in the serene beauty of the ocean for nearly seven hours. 

Upon arrival at White Bay, we tied up to a mooring ball and took the dinghy over to the Ivan’s Stress-Free Bar for savory BBQ beef ribs, the best mashed potatoes of my life, and unforgettable jerk chicken wings. Stress-free it was as we struck up a conversation with a person sitting across the counter, a licensed captain from St. John. After sharing our sailing story, we felt that instant bond that happens between sailors. And then he made a bold prediction: “They’re going to sell everything and buy a boat and live on the ocean!” We all had a good laugh, but no one argued….

After the Stress-Free bar, we headed over to the Soggy Dollar Bar. The Soggy Dollar Bar and its famous Painkiller cocktail have taken on special significance for me. Perhaps it’s because I was so inspired by the sailing couples we watched on YouTube, who made the Painkiller a part of their sailing adventures. Arriving at the Soggy Dollar felt like a significant milestone.

After such a big day, it was finally time to unwind. We gathered again on the tippy-top deck for a sundowner and chatted about our day. The bay was more crowded than any other we’d been to, with several catamarans on mooring balls nearby. There was a boat off our stern, but we were facing the boat off the bow. And on that stern were two gentlemen, one of whose swim trunks were “indiscernible.” 😳 It was difficult to say, was it light colored? Tan perhaps? 👀 It was clear when he turned around – that was a buttcrack. 🍑

After some ribbing back and forth, we discovered they were from Nebraska, our neighboring state! Soon, the two gentlemen were headed our way, fully clad, on their dinghy. They approached our boat and we invited them to board. After introductions and daiquiris, another dinghy approached and four more people boarded! Another round of daiquiris, and there we were, having a party with strangers!

The impromptu party lasted for about 30 minutes and then they were gone! It was a great end to another incredible day 🙂

Thursday: Snorkeling at the Indians and Back to Bight Bay

Thursday morning called for more snorkeling as we were still hoping to catch a glimpse of Mr. Sea Turtle. No luck 🙁

But we were eager to give Maria and Mary an unforgettable snorkeling experience, so we pointed our bow south, toward the mesmerizing Indians.  On our way, we decided to fill up our water tanks and get more fuel, so we made a stop at Soper’s Hole Wharf & Marina on the western end of Tortola. Once we were watered and fueled up, we resumed our southern passage.

After an amazing snorkel session at The Indians, we returned to Bight Bay at Norman Island. We rinsed off, freshened up, and took the dinghy over to Willie-Ts for dinner and a few more slushy margaritas. Once we’d had our fill, we dinghied back to our catamaran under the cover of darkness, content and ready for the next day’s adventure.

Friday: Maria and Mary’s Final Day

Friday marked the final day of our journey with Maria and Mary. We sailed west and south of Norman Island, briefly venturing towards Venezuela’s distant shores before turning north towards Road Town for our third docking challenge.

Despite radioing ahead to the marina, we received no response and had to manage on our own. Once again, Kent did a spectacular job at the helm while Mary and I worked the deck and lines. With careful planning and flawless execution, we nailed it. Well done, crew! 

Maria and Mary quickly disembarked, heading off to catch a ferry back to St. Thomas, where they’d spend a night before flying back to the States. Instead of returning to Hodges Creek Marina as we initially planned, Kent and I decided to spend our last night at Cooper Island just across the channel to the south. Here, much to our surprise, we experienced the week’s most spectacular snorkeling. Afterward, we rinsed off on the stern, changed into our PJs, and headed up to the flybridge to witness our final sunset in the BVI.

Saturday: Our Final Day

On Saturday, we joined a queue of boats preparing to return to Dream Yacht Charters at Hodges Creek Marina. Once it was our turn, we skillfully maneuvered the Virgo Maris to the dock and tied off.

From there, it was exactly as you might imagine – we fueled up, packed up all of our crap, signed off on another checklist, and disembarked. We were weary from the heat and had a full day of travel ahead, but we were filled with a sense of awe and accomplishment.

The Imperfect Perfect Life: Reflections

Sailing, by its very nature, is an unpredictable activity. The wind shifts, the waves crash, and unexpected situations arise, demanding quick thinking and adaptation. Rather than viewing these unpredictable events as obstacles, we choose to see them as inherent aspects of the experience, embracing the imperfect nature of the journey.

This constant adaptation, in turn, leads to a sense of empowerment. By repeatedly confronting and overcoming unexpected situations, we develop resilience and resourcefulness that extend beyond sailing into other areas of life.

Striving for a “perfect” experience, devoid of challenges, ultimately leads to frustration. Instead, we embrace the unpredictable nature of life, viewing challenges not as setbacks, but as opportunities for growth and learning. This “imperfect perfect life” is characterized by a mindset that allows us to manage and navigate through challenges, leading to a sense of liberation and the ability to achieve anything.

Sailing is more than just a recreational activity; it’s a way of life that attracts like-minded individuals who share a deep appreciation for the challenges and rewards that come with it. The shared experiences of navigating unpredictable situations and adapting to the demands of the sea create a strong bond between sailors, fostering a sense of camaraderie that transcends geographical boundaries. I think that is what we love about sailing.

Thanks for reading! Next time, I’ll be doing an analysis of how well we packed and prepared for the trip.

More pics for your enjoyment 🙂